On the Left Bank, just across from Notre-Dame Cathedral, stands Shakespeare and Company—a small, creaking bookstore that has shaped literary life in Paris for more than a century. Visitors come for the shelves of English-language books, the warren of rooms and alcoves, and the sense that literature is not only sold here but lived here. This guide covers the history (in two chapters and two addresses), what to expect inside, how the “Tumbleweeds” tradition works, why the shop stamp matters, and practical tips for planning a visit.

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Where it all began: the first Shakespeare & Co (1919–1941)

The story starts in 1919 when Sylvia Beach, an American bookseller, opened Shakespeare and Company at 8 rue Dupuytren, later moving it to 12 rue de l’Odéon. Her shop quickly became a hub for the “Lost Generation”: Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, James Joyce, and many others borrowed books and debated at the tiny lending library. In 1922 Beach famously published James Joyce’s Ulysses when other publishers refused.

During the German occupation of Paris in World War II, Beach closed her store (and it never reopened). But by then, the name “Shakespeare and Company” had already become shorthand for a certain Paris literary spirit: open shelves, open conversations, and a second home for writers far from home.

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A second act: George Whitman’s bookstore (1951–today)

In 1951, another American book lover, George Whitman, opened an English-language bookshop at 37 rue de la Bûcherie, a short walk from Place Saint-Michel and directly facing Notre-Dame. He called it Le Mistral at first. In 1964, to honor Sylvia Beach, he renamed it “Shakespeare and Company.”

This site is the one visitors know today: a narrow-fronted, ivy-trimmed store with hand-painted signs and a maze of rooms. Whitman’s idea was simple: books should be accessible, the shop should feel like a haven, and young writers should have a place to catch their breath in Paris. After decades at the helm, George Whitman passed the torch to his daughter Sylvia Whitman, who helped modernize operations while keeping the store’s ethos. The shop remains independent, English-language, and open to readers first.

Address: 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris
Official site: https://shakespeareandcompany.com/

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Inside the bookstore: what to look for

• Ground floor (New books): The front room carries new releases and backlist favorites in English, from contemporary fiction and poetry to travel, history, and children’s titles. Expect staff picks and handwritten notes.
• The old lending-library rooms (upstairs): The creaky staircase leads to a set of intimate rooms and reading nooks. You’ll find a small piano, a typewriter, vintage photos, and shelves of older editions (these upstairs books are generally not for sale; it’s a reading and browsing space).
• Photo policy: The store is compact and often crowded; photography policies may vary or be limited in some rooms to keep traffic flowing and preserve a quiet atmosphere. Follow posted signs and staff guidance.
• The shop stamp: If you buy a book here, you can usually ask for the “Shakespeare and Company, Kilometre Zero Paris” stamp on the title page. It’s a simple mark that many readers value as a memento.

A note on access: the shop’s stairs are steep and narrow; the ground floor is tighter but usually manageable with care. If accessibility is a concern, ask staff for assistance and for the quietest times to visit.

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The “Tumbleweeds”: how the writer-in-residence tradition works

One of the bookstore’s most distinctive features is its tradition of hosting aspiring writers—known as “Tumbleweeds.” For decades, travelers who are writing (or trying to write) have slept among the shelves in exchange for a bit of help in the store, reading a book a day, and (often) writing a brief autobiography for the shop’s archives. The program’s size and specifics have evolved with time and practical constraints, but it remains a core part of the shop’s identity: a bookstore that functions like a small literary shelter.

If you’re interested, check the official website for the most current information on submissions, expectations, and availability, as policies can change.

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Readings, festivals, and the bookstore’s publishing arm

Shakespeare & Company regularly hosts author talks, readings, and signings—from debut novelists to major names on tour. Seats are limited and often first-come, first-served (occasionally ticketed). The shop also runs a podcast that shares selected recordings from past events, allowing readers abroad to experience the room’s intimacy and the Q&A energy.

In recent years, Shakespeare & Company has also become known for its independent publishing projects and collaborations, including The Paris Review connections and limited-run chapbooks, as well as its ongoing support of small presses. For the latest event calendar and releases, refer to the Events or News sections on the official site.

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The Café next door

Next to the bookstore you’ll find the Shakespeare and Company Café—a small spot with a direct view of Notre-Dame’s towers. The café serves coffee, teas, pastries, and light vegetarian-friendly plates. It’s popular, and seating is limited, so you may need to wait for a table. This is an easy place to decompress after a crowded browse in the shop, or to people-watch as readers come and go with stamped purchases in hand.

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Practical tips for visiting

• Peak times: Weekends and afternoons can get very busy. If you prefer a calmer browse, go early or later in the evening.
• Queues: Don’t be surprised by a short queue outside; it helps the staff manage the store’s tight layout.
• Buying and stamping: If the line is long and you already know the title you want, head straight to staff and ask; they’re used to helping visitors find a specific book quickly. Remember to request the store stamp when paying.
• Respect the space: Keep volume low, avoid blocking narrow stairways, and follow any photo restrictions. The upstairs rooms are for reading and reflection—not a photo studio.
• Combine with nearby sights: Notre-Dame and the Île de la Cité are across the road; the Latin Quarter spreads out behind the shop with cafés and small cinemas.

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A short literary history—without the myths

Plenty of legends swirl around the store, but the key facts stand on their own:

• Two bookstores, one spirit: Sylvia Beach’s original Shakespeare and Company (1919–1941) at 12 rue de l’Odéon; George Whitman’s Shakespeare and Company (1951–today) at 37 rue de la Bûcherie. The latter honors Beach by name and philosophy but is a distinct, later store.
• Publishing Ulysses: Beach’s original shop published James Joyce’s Ulysses in 1922. That editorial courage cemented Shakespeare and Company’s role in modern literature.
• A working bookstore: The present-day shop is not a museum. It sells new books, hosts events, and keeps a rotating staff of booksellers who read widely and know the catalog.
• Readers first: From lending-library origins to Tumbleweeds, the through-line is simple: readers and writers come first, and profit never overrides the store’s cultural mission.

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Suggested routes and nearby stops

Make a half-day of it on the Left Bank:

1. Start at Shakespeare & Company (37 rue de la Bûcherie) for browsing and a stamped purchase.
2. Step into the café next door for a coffee with a Notre-Dame view.
3. Walk a few minutes to the Panthéon—another Left Bank landmark with a major literary connection (read our guide).
4. Loop through the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Latin Quarter’s backstreets.
5. Cross the Seine via Pont Saint-Michel or Pont Neuf for sunset views.

For more planning help:

• Paris Arrondissements Guide
• Planning a Trip to Paris: What You Should Know
• Paris in Autumn: Why Fall is a Great Time to Visit
• Top 10 Mistakes in Paris – and How to Avoid Them

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Frequently asked questions (quick answers)

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Why it’s worth your time

Shakespeare and Company is small, often crowded, and sometimes chaotic—but it has purpose. It’s a bookstore that treats reading as a daily habit and a public good. You come for a novel or a notebook and leave with a stamped title that quietly says you were here, in a place where books have mattered for a long time.

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Plan with Paris For You

Exploring the Left Bank and literary Paris is easier with the Paris For You app—offline maps, curated routes, quizzes, and guides in 26 languages help you navigate without stress.

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